Read time: 5-6 min
A chain’s width changes how you’re read in a room. Think of width as presence control: turn it down for clean minimalism, turn it up for visible intent. This guide keeps it practical and bias‑free so you can pick once and wear often.
The 10‑Second Width Picker
-
Sleek (1.8mm – 2,7 mm) → Sleek over a tee, sharp with a pendant, easy to layer. Good width for your first chain.
-
Core (3 – 4 mm) → the everyday sweet spot; visible, versatile, never loud.
-
Statement (5 mm+) → confident and weighty; best alone or as the longest layer.
Same number, different read: dense links (Franco) look chunkier than airier ones (Box) at the exact same width.
Fit, Presence, Purpose
-
Fit — Your neck/shoulders set the canvas. Bigger frames can carry more width without looking crowded.
-
Presence — Wider = more shine + shadow = more attention. Narrower = cleaner lines, less visual noise.
-
Purpose — Daily driver? Start in the core or sleek zone. Statement night? Go statement and lower the neckline.
Outfit Playbook
-
T‑shirt → 3.5–4 mm (Franco 3 mm also works—looks thicker than spec). Sits clean over cotton.
-
Polo / blazer → 2.4–3.5 mm. Tuck for a low‑key edge or wear out for a line of light.
-
Evening / suit → 2.7 –3.5 mm under the collar. Bolder: 4–6 mm with a polished link and open top button or with a crewneck.
-
Layering → Depth beats bulk: try to have 2 inch differences between different layers.
Pendants: Proportion First
-
Pair a shorter 3 mm–5 mm chain with our 24-inch, 1.8 mm chain and pendant for a great layering look.
What Each Link “Says”
-
Curb — flat, mirror‑friendly, inherently bold. At 5 mm it’s a lead character.
-
Franco — dense V‑geometry; catches light from many angles. 3 mm looks like a size up.
-
Box — squared profile, airy, modern; fantastic as a pendant carrier.
-
Spiga (Wheat) — braided texture; sophisticated at 2.4 mm.
Keays Picks by Situation
Low‑profile daily
-
Box 2.5 mm (20–22") or Spiga 2.4 mm.
Everyday standout
-
Box 4 mm (22-24" ) or Franco 3 mm for compact shine.
Confident solo
-
Curb 5 mm (22–24")—balanced on athletic/broad frames; strong with a clean crewneck.
Pendants
-
Layer any chain with our 24 inch pendants. Make sure to choose a pairing chain that is 20 or 22 inches.
Materials at Keays: recycled 925 sterling silver finished with rhodium for brightness and resistance, and real 18K gold for a rich, lasting gold tone.
Avoid These Traps
-
Collar crowding → big widths + tight crewnecks fight each other. Either lengthen or slim down.
-
Ignoring link density → a 3 mm Franco ≠ a 3 mm Box in visual heft.
-
Flat stack → vary both lengths and widths when layering.
Quick FAQs
Is 3 mm too small?
On most men, 3 mm reads “sleek.” For more pop, 3.5–4 mm or over.
Mix metals?
Yes—silver with gold works when lengths and textures differ.
Build Your Setup
-
Box Chains: 1.8 mm, 2.7 mm, 4 mm
-
Franco Chains: 2. 6mm, 3 mm
-
Spiga Chains: 2.4 mm
-
Curb Chains: 3.5 mm, 5 mm